{"id":1,"date":"2025-03-30T07:26:27","date_gmt":"2025-03-30T07:26:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/?p=1"},"modified":"2025-03-30T08:03:39","modified_gmt":"2025-03-30T08:03:39","slug":"fill-floor-ridges","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/2025\/03\/30\/fill-floor-ridges\/","title":{"rendered":"Subfloor: Filling Floor Ridges vs. Leaving Them Empty"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Introduction<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Building a campervan subfloor in a van involves dealing with the factory metal floor, which has raised ridges (corrugations) with valleys in between. A common question among van builders is whether to\u00a0<strong>fill those low valleys before adding insulation and subfloor<\/strong>. The decision can impact thermal performance, noise, and floor height. In fact, there are \u201ctwo schools of thought\u201d on this issue and\u00a0<strong>endless debates online<\/strong>\u00a0(<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/bedrug-cargo-liner\/?srsltid=AfmBOopj5DUHlWDguhMEyyJ5-Xzt265Vn2BXCGLrCW20PYy9rnwC_NPY#:~:text=,between%20the%20corrugations%2C%20or%20not\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Bedrug VanTred Cargo Liner: Drop-In Floor Insulation for Vans?<\/a>). This guide will break down the pros and cons of\u00a0<strong>filling vs. not filling<\/strong>\u00a0the floor corrugations, and recommend best practices given your priorities:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"1\" class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Maximize thermal insulation<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Reduce sound (noise)<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Minimize overall floor height buildup<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p>By drawing on van conversion experts and community experiences, we\u2019ll help you decide the optimal approach for your Transit subfloor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Understanding the Transit Floor and Your Priorities<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The van\u2019s cargo floor is thin metal stamped with\u00a0<strong>corrugated ridges<\/strong>\u00a0for strength. The ridges (~0.3\u20130.4\u2033 high) create an uneven surface with hollow channels in between. When insulating and building a subfloor, you have to choose how to handle these channels (\u201cvalleys\u201d). Key considerations include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Thermal Insulation:<\/strong>&nbsp;The metal ridges act as thermal bridges \u2013 they conduct heat\/cold easily. Insulation (like XPS foam boards) is used to cover the floor and slow heat transfer. Any uninsulated air gaps or exposed metal will reduce overall R-value. A continuous layer of insulation is ideal to keep the floor warm.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Sound Reduction:<\/strong>&nbsp;The van\u2019s metal floor can resonate road noise and vibrations. Hollow cavities can amplify sound (drum effect), and wood-on-metal contact can lead to squeaks. Adding mass or damping material and decoupling layers can significantly cut noise.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Floor Height:<\/strong>&nbsp;Every inch of subfloor (insulation + plywood + flooring) eats into interior headroom. Many vanlifers aim to keep the floor build thin. However, going too thin can sacrifice comfort (cold, noisy floor) or structural stability. The challenge is to achieve good insulation and sound deadening with minimal thickness.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Understanding these factors, let\u2019s examine the two main approaches for the ridged floor:&nbsp;<strong>filling the valleys<\/strong>&nbsp;versus&nbsp;<strong>leaving them open<\/strong>&nbsp;under your XPS insulation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Option 1: Filling the Floor Valleys (Insulation Strips)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What It Involves:<\/strong>&nbsp;Cutting pieces of insulation (or other material) to fit snugly in the low channels so they are flush with the tops of the metal ridges. Commonly, builders use strips of rigid foam (XPS or polyiso) or a closed-cell foam like minicell, glued in place. Some older methods use wood furring strips, but as we\u2019ll see, that has drawbacks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Pros of Filling the Valleys:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Better Insulation &amp; Sound Damping:<\/strong>&nbsp;Packing foam into the corrugations adds a bit more R-value and eliminates empty air cavities. This can&nbsp;<strong>slightly boost thermal performance and reduce noise<\/strong>&nbsp;compared to leaving them empty (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). The foam in the channels is additional insulation and also contacts the metal, potentially damping vibrations. One van builder notes it \u201cgives you more insulation than just leaving air voids\u201d (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=I%20followed%20the%20same%20instruction,risk%20deviating%20from%20the%20process\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>More Support for the Subfloor:<\/strong>&nbsp;With the valleys filled level, you create a flat, fully supported platform. Your top foam board and plywood will sit on&nbsp;<strong>continuous support<\/strong>&nbsp;rather than spanning gaps. This can&nbsp;<strong>reduce flexing and potential squeaks<\/strong>. FarOutRide (a respected van conversion blog) filled the ribs in their first van and noted it provided more support surface for the next layer (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). If your ridges are uneven height, filling makes sure there are no low spots.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Less Chance of Foam Compression:<\/strong>&nbsp;Although quality XPS foam is very rigid, having support in the valleys means any point load on the floor is distributed. This gives peace of mind that the foam won\u2019t be crushed in the long term. Some builders who are&nbsp;<em>\u201creally paranoid about squeaks\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;or compression choose to fill because it\u2019s a \u201cproven process\u201d (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=I%20followed%20the%20same%20instruction,risk%20deviating%20from%20the%20process\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). (As we\u2019ll discuss later, high-density foam can usually handle the load even without fillers.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Leveling for Finished Floor:<\/strong>&nbsp;A filled floor is completely level metal-wise. This is helpful if you plan to glue down thin flooring directly. It also means any spills won\u2019t immediately run to the center \u2013 though this is a double-edged sword (more on moisture below).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cons of Filling the Valleys:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Significant Extra Work:<\/strong>&nbsp;Nearly everyone agrees that cutting and fitting strips for every channel is&nbsp;<strong>tedious and time-consuming<\/strong>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/jeremiahlukebarnett.medium.com\/how-to-build-an-insulated-subfloor-in-your-van-conversion-10278d3caaf#:~:text=Cut%20and%20fit%20all%20the,grooves%20in%20the%20van%20floor\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">How to Build an Insulated Subfloor in Your Van Conversion | by Jeremiah Luke Barnett | Medium<\/a>). There can be dozens of strips to measure and cut. A DIYer who filled all grooves with 0.5\u2033 Foamular board said&nbsp;<em>\u201cThis was a very tedious process\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/jeremiahlukebarnett.medium.com\/how-to-build-an-insulated-subfloor-in-your-van-conversion-10278d3caaf#:~:text=Cut%20and%20fit%20all%20the,grooves%20in%20the%20van%20floor\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">How to Build an Insulated Subfloor in Your Van Conversion | by Jeremiah Luke Barnett | Medium<\/a>). It\u2019s a lot of effort for what some consider marginal gains. FarOutRide ultimately decided the&nbsp;<strong>\u201creturn on investment [was] not worthwhile\u201d<\/strong>&nbsp;for a full rib fill (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Potential Moisture Trap:<\/strong>&nbsp;By filling the valleys, you essentially block those channels. Any water that does find its way under the floor (from condensation or a spill)&nbsp;<strong>can\u2019t easily escape<\/strong>. The trapped moisture could sit against the metal and promote rust (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,Return%20on%20investment%20not%20worthwhile\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>) (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/bedrug-cargo-liner\/?srsltid=AfmBOopj5DUHlWDguhMEyyJ5-Xzt265Vn2BXCGLrCW20PYy9rnwC_NPY#:~:text=Provides%20additional%20insulation%20and%20support%2C,between%20the%20metal%20and%20insulation\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Bedrug VanTred Cargo Liner: Drop-In Floor Insulation for Vans?<\/a>). In contrast, an open channel could allow water to flow to a drain point or evaporate. One vanlifer mentioned they skipped filling because&nbsp;<em>\u201cif I ever have a major spill or leak it might be nice to have all those channels open for the spill to drain\u201d<\/em>, which indeed helped when a clogged drain caused a leak (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=I%20was%20planning%20on%20using,clogged%20during%20a%20heavy%20rain\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). Thus, filling requires you to be confident in your water sealing and perhaps add drain holes or desiccants to mitigate corrosion risk.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Minimal Height Impact, But\u2026:<\/strong>&nbsp;Filling the ridges&nbsp;<em>itself<\/em>&nbsp;doesn\u2019t add height (you\u2019re just bringing the low spots up to ridge level), but there\u2019s a subtle effect: some people who fill with wood strips then lay plywood directly on the ridges\/strips. This saves height but means no continuous foam above the ridges. If you instead fill with foam&nbsp;<strong>and still add a top foam board layer<\/strong>, you haven\u2019t saved any height \u2013 you\u2019ve just done more work to fully support it. In short, filling doesn\u2019t really allow a thinner build; it\u2019s usually done in addition to your planned insulation thickness.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Avoid Wood Furring for Insulation:<\/strong>&nbsp;A popular older method was to use wood slats in the valleys (for example, 1\/4\u2033 or 3\/8\u2033 wood strips) as anchoring points for the subfloor.&nbsp;<strong>However, wood is a thermal bridge<\/strong>&nbsp;\u2013 it conducts heat\/cold better than foam. Using wood breaks your insulation layer and creates hot\/cold stripes through the floor. As one guide cautions:&nbsp;<em>\u201cusing wood furring strips to fill the corrugations&#8230; creates \u2018thermal bridges\u2019&#8230; basically a path for the cold from your metal floor, through the wood and into your finished floor. You need a solid layer of insulation between the metal and your finished floor.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lorjorexplore.com\/blog\/insulating-and-installing-a-campervan-floor#:~:text=One%20seemingly%20popular%20method%20we%E2%80%99d,metal%20and%20your%20finished%20floor\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Insulating and Installing a Campervan Floor<\/a>). If you need hard attachment points (for bolting down furniture), it\u2019s better to use&nbsp;<strong>limited wood or metal only where required<\/strong>&nbsp;rather than across every rib. We\u2019ll cover a hybrid approach in the best practices section.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Cost of Materials:<\/strong>&nbsp;Filling the ribs usually doesn\u2019t require much additional material (foam board or strips are relatively cheap), but&nbsp;<strong>specialty foam like minicell can be expensive<\/strong>. Some builders like the FarOutRide \u201c4-season\u201d method use 1\/4\u2033 minicell foam sheets in the valleys for sound and anti-squeak. Minicell is great (doesn\u2019t squeak, hydrophobic), but if you have to import it, it can be pricy. In one case, a builder in Canada found it would cost&nbsp;<code>$300<\/code>&nbsp;extra to get minicell for filling, and was looking to skip it (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=%E2%80%A2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). If cost or availability is an issue, you could use strips of the same XPS you already have (many have done this successfully (<a href=\"https:\/\/jeremiahlukebarnett.medium.com\/how-to-build-an-insulated-subfloor-in-your-van-conversion-10278d3caaf#:~:text=Cut%20and%20fit%20all%20the,grooves%20in%20the%20van%20floor\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">How to Build an Insulated Subfloor in Your Van Conversion | by Jeremiah Luke Barnett | Medium<\/a>)). Just be aware to secure them well (spray adhesive works) so they don\u2019t rattle loose.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How to Fill Properly (If You Choose To):<\/strong>&nbsp;If you decide the benefits are worth the work, here are a few tips from the community:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Use foam, not wood:<\/em>&nbsp;Preferably use closed-cell foam strips (XPS or&nbsp;<strong>minicell polyethylene foam<\/strong>). XPS has higher R-value (~5 per inch) (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>), while minicell has ~3.5 per inch but is softer and guarantees no squeaks (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=%2A%20R,time%20consuming\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). Both are&nbsp;<strong>closed-cell (won\u2019t absorb water)<\/strong>. Cut strips of the appropriate thickness (usually 1\/4\u2033\u20133\/8\u2033) to match the ridge height (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lorjorexplore.com\/blog\/insulating-and-installing-a-campervan-floor#:~:text=One%20simple%20way%20of%20doing,90%20or%20Loctite%20High%20Performance\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Insulating and Installing a Campervan Floor<\/a>). Glue them to the metal with a strong spray adhesive (3M 90 or similar) for a firm bond (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lorjorexplore.com\/blog\/insulating-and-installing-a-campervan-floor#:~:text=One%20simple%20way%20of%20doing,90%20or%20Loctite%20High%20Performance\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Insulating and Installing a Campervan Floor<\/a>). Ensure no gaps for best support.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Pre-template the floor:<\/em>&nbsp;Use a cardboard template or the factory mat (if you have one) to mark where strips need to go. Some builders lay big sheets of foam first, then trace ridges, but it\u2019s often easier to place strips first, then add the top layer.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Consider&nbsp;<\/em><strong><em>BedRug VanTred<\/em><\/strong><em>:<\/em>&nbsp;If time is more precious than money, there\u2019s a product called&nbsp;<strong>BedRug VanTred<\/strong>&nbsp;(or VanRug) which is a pre-shaped plastic\/foam floor liner. It\u2019s essentially a drop-in layer cut to your van\u2019s exact floor shape, with a foam backing that&nbsp;<strong>fills the corrugations<\/strong>&nbsp;and a rubbery top surface. This can save hours of work:&nbsp;<em>\u201cCutting out each individual piece of minicell foam and gluing them down is a tedious process\u2026 [BedRug gives] a custom fit floor template\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;out of the box (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lorjorexplore.com\/blog\/insulating-and-installing-a-campervan-floor#:~:text=There%E2%80%99s%20an%20alternative%20product%20on,you%20a%20flat%2C%20durable%20surface\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Insulating and Installing a Campervan Floor<\/a>). The VanTred is about 1\/2\u2033 thick and provides around R-3 insulation (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lorjorexplore.com\/blog\/insulating-and-installing-a-campervan-floor#:~:text=There%E2%80%99s%20an%20alternative%20product%20on,you%20a%20flat%2C%20durable%20surface\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Insulating and Installing a Campervan Floor<\/a>). The downside is cost (~$200-300) and slightly lower R-value than thicker foam boards. Still, many find the convenience worth it.&nbsp;<em>(Image below: a VanTred cargo liner being installed \u2013 it unrolls to fill the ridges with its foam backing.)<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>(<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>)&nbsp;<em>A drop-in BedRug VanTred cargo liner being installed in a Ford Transit. The foam-backed mat fills the floor\u2019s corrugation valleys, providing a flat insulated surface. This is an alternative to cutting individual foam strips by hand.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Don\u2019t block weep holes:<\/em>&nbsp;Ensure any factory drain\/weep holes in the floor remain clear or are relocated. If you fill over them, drill a small hole through the foam or floor layer so that if water does get under, it has an exit.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Treat the metal floor:<\/em>&nbsp;Since filling can trap moisture, it\u2019s wise to rust-proof the metal first. Clean any existing rust and apply a coat of rust-inhibitor paint (e.g. POR-15 or Rustoleum) (<a href=\"https:\/\/expeditionportal.com\/forum\/threads\/van-floor-tips-climate-considerations.204512\/#:~:text=If%20you%20are%20really%20concerned,not%20worry%20about%20it%20again\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Van floor tips, climate considerations? | Expedition Portal<\/a>). This extra step ensures that even if a bit of water sits in a valley, your metal is protected from corrosion.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Option 2: Leaving the Valleys Unfilled (Floating Floor)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What It Involves:<\/strong>&nbsp;In this approach, you do&nbsp;<strong>not<\/strong>&nbsp;put anything in the low grooves. You lay your insulation board (XPS, polyiso, etc.) on top of the ridges, effectively \u201cbridging\u201d over the valleys. Then you add your plywood subfloor on top. The foam and plywood span the gaps created by the ridges, and the space in the channels remains an air gap. In essence, the subfloor is supported only by the metal ridges and wherever the foam touches those high points.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Pros of Not Filling:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Simpler and Less Work:<\/strong>&nbsp;The biggest advantage is&nbsp;<strong>simplicity<\/strong>. You can cut your foam boards to fit the van\u2019s floor outline and drop them in, without fiddling with dozens of small pieces. It\u2019s&nbsp;<em>\u201cless work, cheaper\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;as FarOutRide summarizes (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,Concerns%20about%20insulation%20compressing%20underweight\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). Many DIYers report that skipping the filler strips made the floor install much faster with no ill effects. This approach also uses slightly less material (you\u2019re not buying extra foam for the channels).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Preserves a Drainage Path:<\/strong>&nbsp;Leaving the channels open can be beneficial for moisture management. Any condensation on the metal or minor leaks\/spills have a path to&nbsp;<strong>evaporate or migrate<\/strong>&nbsp;instead of being trapped against the metal. The valleys create little gutters under the floor. FarOutRide notes this approach&nbsp;<em>\u201callows condensation\/spill water to evacuate\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,Concerns%20about%20insulation%20compressing%20underweight\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). In real-world examples, people have indeed found that an open channel helped alert them to water and guided it out. For instance, one builder mentioned a leak from a clogged vent: because he hadn\u2019t filled the valleys, the water ran along the groove to where he could see and address it (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=I%20was%20planning%20on%20using,clogged%20during%20a%20heavy%20rain\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). In a filled floor, that water might have been absorbed or hidden under the insulation. In short, an open design is a bit more forgiving if moisture sneaks in.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Nearly Equal Insulation (with Air Gap):<\/strong>&nbsp;It might seem counterintuitive, but an&nbsp;<strong>enclosed air gap<\/strong>&nbsp;has insulation value too. The hollow space in each valley is trapped air once the foam board and flooring are on, which provides some thermal break. One van professional argued that&nbsp;<em>\u201cthe still air gap is going to work nearly as well as filling it\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;in terms of insulation (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=%E2%80%A2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). The main insulation is from your continuous foam layer above, which is the same in either case. The difference in overall R-value between filled vs. unfilled grooves (especially if the grooves are only ~0.3\u2033 high) is quite small \u2013 on the order of R-0.2 or so. Many builders report warm floors even without filling, as long as a decent thickness foam board is used.&nbsp;<strong>Thermal priority can still be achieved without fillers<\/strong>, by using, say, 3\/4\u2033 or 1\u2033 XPS across the whole floor.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Adequate Strength \u2013 Foam Can Handle It:<\/strong>&nbsp;Modern rigid foam boards (XPS, polyiso) have high compressive strength (15\u201325 psi or greater). Spread over even a small area, they can support a tremendous load. For example, one van builder noted that a sheet of XPS has a weight capacity of over&nbsp;<strong>6 tons<\/strong>&nbsp;\u2013&nbsp;<em>\u201cYour van will be crushed before the XPS [fails]\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=%E2%80%A2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). In practice, people have seen that the foam does&nbsp;<strong>not collapse or permanently compress<\/strong>&nbsp;in the gaps. A Sprinter van owner who did 1\u2033 polyiso with 3\/4\u2033 plywood, no strips, reported after a year:&nbsp;<em>\u201cthe XPS had not really compressed much into the corrugations\u2026 Our floor is solid and stable\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/sprinter-source.com\/forums\/index.php?threads\/73667\/#:~:text=1%20inch%20poly%20iso%2C%20with,wobble\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Insulating floors&#8230;really necessary for conversion? | Sprinter-Source.com<\/a>). Another who full-timed for 2 years with just 1\/2\u2033 foam and no plywood (only laminate on top) found&nbsp;<em>\u201cNo compression. No damage to the van\u2019s floor\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;after heavy use (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/vandwellers\/comments\/jn9ead\/trying_to_understand_why_people_use_firing_strips\/#:~:text=People%20are%20afraid%20the%20foam,pounds%20of%20furniture%20and%20you\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Trying to understand why people use firing strips when doing subfloor in van. Is it not just as good to use adhesive and secure rigid foam then plywood then flooring? Would love feedback, especially from those with experience. : r\/vandwellers<\/a>). These real-world cases show that as long as you use&nbsp;<strong>high-density foam (XPS or polyiso, not cheap white EPS)<\/strong>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/vandwellers\/comments\/jn9ead\/trying_to_understand_why_people_use_firing_strips\/#:~:text=No%20damage%20to%20the%20van%27s,the%20way%20to%20the%20metal\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Trying to understand why people use firing strips when doing subfloor in van. Is it not just as good to use adhesive and secure rigid foam then plywood then flooring? Would love feedback, especially from those with experience. : r\/vandwellers<\/a>), the foam and subfloor can easily bridge the 4-5\u2033 wide gaps between ridges without issues. (Do avoid the low-density beaded polystyrene; it\u2019s not durable enough.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Avoids Thermal Bridges:<\/strong>&nbsp;By not adding wood furring, you maintain an all-insulation layer between the metal floor and your living space. Aside from the thin metal ridges touching the insulation, there are no additional conductors. This is actually a&nbsp;<em>more<\/em>&nbsp;thermally efficient design than using wood strips. As one van converter put it,&nbsp;<em>\u201cThe framing [wood strips] is more work and introduces thermal bridging\u201d<\/em>, whereas just foam and plywood avoids that (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/vandwellers\/comments\/jn9ead\/trying_to_understand_why_people_use_firing_strips\/#:~:text=I%20could%20not%20agree%20more%2C,choose%20not%20to%20do%20this\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Trying to understand why people use firing strips when doing subfloor in van. Is it not just as good to use adhesive and secure rigid foam then plywood then flooring? Would love feedback, especially from those with experience. : r\/vandwellers<\/a>). In your case, with insulation as a top priority, skipping wood makes sense \u2013 and an unfilled floor by definition uses no wood in the field (except perhaps at edges or for specific anchors, which we\u2019ll address).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>No Height Penalty:<\/strong>&nbsp;This method doesn\u2019t add any extra layers beyond what you planned. You\u2019ll likely use the same thickness of XPS foam board either way, so the total build height remains minimal. In fact, some people have gone&nbsp;<strong>ultra-minimal<\/strong>&nbsp;with this approach: for example, laying 1\/2\u2033 or 1\u2033 foam and then installing thin&nbsp;<strong>laminate or vinyl flooring directly on top<\/strong>, with no plywood, to save height (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/vandwellers\/comments\/jn9ead\/trying_to_understand_why_people_use_firing_strips\/#:~:text=to%20under%20a%20few%20hundred,pounds%20of%20furniture%20and%20you\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Trying to understand why people use firing strips when doing subfloor in van. Is it not just as good to use adhesive and secure rigid foam then plywood then flooring? Would love feedback, especially from those with experience. : r\/vandwellers<\/a>). (This can work if the floor isn\u2019t bearing heavy furniture, but most prefer at least a thin plywood for secure anchoring and weight distribution.)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cons of Not Filling:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Slightly Reduced Insulation &amp; Soundproofing:<\/strong>&nbsp;Leaving the valleys empty does mean there\u2019s a bit less material between you and the outside. You\u2019ll have small air pockets instead of foam there. The metal ridges themselves are still exposed on the inside (they touch the underside of your foam board). So, in theory, a filled floor has marginally higher R-value and a bit more sound damping. FarOutRide notes the&nbsp;<strong>trade-off:<\/strong>&nbsp;not filling yields&nbsp;<em>\u201ca little less insulation [and] noise reduction\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/bedrug-cargo-liner\/?srsltid=AfmBOopj5DUHlWDguhMEyyJ5-Xzt265Vn2BXCGLrCW20PYy9rnwC_NPY#:~:text=Provides%20additional%20insulation%20and%20support%2C,between%20the%20metal%20and%20insulation\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Bedrug VanTred Cargo Liner: Drop-In Floor Insulation for Vans?<\/a>). If you plan to camp in extreme cold, you might care about every fraction of an R-value. That said, many vanlifers (even in winter climates) report no noticeable difference \u2013&nbsp;<strong>other factors (overall insulation thickness, etc.) have a bigger impact<\/strong>. For noise, the hollow channels could very slightly amplify sound, but in practice the difference can be mitigated (see best practices below).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Less Direct Support (Theoretical Concern):<\/strong>&nbsp;One worry is that without fillers, the plywood and foam are not supported in the middle of each span between ridges \u2013 potentially causing flex or foam compression under heavy loads. In practice, with quality materials and correct install, this has proven to be a non-issue. For instance, a van builder on Reddit pointed out that XPS is used under concrete slabs and doesn\u2019t compress under a van\u2019s furniture and occupants (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/vandwellers\/comments\/jn9ead\/trying_to_understand_why_people_use_firing_strips\/#:~:text=People%20are%20afraid%20the%20foam,pounds%20of%20furniture%20and%20you\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Trying to understand why people use firing strips when doing subfloor in van. Is it not just as good to use adhesive and secure rigid foam then plywood then flooring? Would love feedback, especially from those with experience. : r\/vandwellers<\/a>). Another said,&nbsp;<em>\u201cFiller strips seem like a lot of work, but I don\u2019t see the value\u2026 our floor is solid and there is no way it could wobble.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/sprinter-source.com\/forums\/index.php?threads\/73667\/#:~:text=1%20inch%20poly%20iso%2C%20with,wobble\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Insulating floors&#8230;really necessary for conversion? | Sprinter-Source.com<\/a>). The key is to use sufficiently thick foam and a strong top layer. If you use a very thin plywood (or none) and have a heavy point load, then yes, you could feel some flex. But with, say, 1\/2\u2033 plywood screwed down into the foam, the floor will feel firm. One caution:&nbsp;<strong>during installation<\/strong>, before the plywood is in, avoid stepping directly on the foam spanning a gap \u2013 you could crack it under your foot.&nbsp;<em>\u201cJust be somewhat careful to not crack it by walking or kneeling on the XPS on a rib until you install plywood,\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;one installer advises (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=%E2%80%A2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). Once the subfloor sheathing is on, the load spreads out and this concern disappears.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Possible Squeaks or Movement:<\/strong>&nbsp;If the foam and plywood are not secured, there\u2019s a chance of the assembly moving or rubbing slightly on the metal ridges over time. This can cause squeaking noises when driving or walking. Rigid foam against metal can squeak if there\u2019s any flex. Without filler strips, you have fewer contact points (just the ridges). However, this&nbsp;<em>can be addressed<\/em>&nbsp;by proper installation: using adhesive or a thin cushioning layer so nothing is loose (we\u2019ll detail this in best practices). FarOutRide mentions that XPS floors can squeak if no care is taken, but they solved it by adding glue and would still choose not to fill the whole floor (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=Squeaking%20The%20only%20downside%20of,few%20things%20to%20watch%20for\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>) (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,near%20the%20cabin\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). In short, an unfilled design might require a bit more attention to prevent noise, but it\u2019s manageable.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Edge Support Gaps:<\/strong>&nbsp;In a Transit, the pattern of ridges might leave some spots (especially along the edges or corners) where there isn\u2019t a ridge directly under part of the subfloor. For example, near the walls or the sliding door threshold, you could have an overhang. In a filled scenario, you likely would have placed a strip there; in an unfilled scenario, that spot would be unsupported. The solution is simply to add support only where needed (e.g. a small block or strip at the perimeter) without filling every valley. Even professional upfitters do this:&nbsp;<em>\u201cSome vans like the Transit also need some furring strips&nbsp;<\/em><strong><em>around the perimeter<\/em><\/strong><em>&nbsp;since the raised corrugations are not very close in these areas\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/expeditionportal.com\/forum\/threads\/van-floor-tips-climate-considerations.204512\/#:~:text=blocks%20where%20cabinets%20and%20other,transmission%20which%20improves%20noise%20reduction\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Van floor tips, climate considerations? | Expedition Portal<\/a>). So, you might still add&nbsp;<strong>a few strategic supports<\/strong>&nbsp;\u2013 which isn\u2019t really a \u201ccon,\u201d just a modification to the pure empty approach.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How to Succeed with an Unfilled Floor:<\/strong>&nbsp;If you choose not to fill the valleys, follow these best practices to ensure a quiet, sturdy, and well-insulated result:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Use High-Density Rigid Foam:<\/em>&nbsp;You\u2019re already planning XPS, which is perfect. XPS (extruded polystyrene, e.g. Owens Corning Foamular) has ~15-25 PSI compressive strength and R-5 per inch (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). Polyiso boards also work (slightly higher R (~6 per inch) but can lose R in very cold temps). Stick to 1\/2\u2033 or 3\/4\u2033 minimum thickness (many do 1\u2033 for more insulation \u2013 according to one guide, the cost and headroom difference between 1\/2\u2033 and 1\u2033 isn\u2019t huge (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lorjorexplore.com\/blog\/insulating-and-installing-a-campervan-floor#:~:text=The%20method%20we%E2%80%99re%20going%20to,will%20likely%20be%20cheaper%20anyway\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Insulating and Installing a Campervan Floor<\/a>)). Cut the foam boards to closely fit the floor shape and around wheel wells, etc., so they don\u2019t shift.&nbsp;<strong>Do not use low-density EPS<\/strong>&nbsp;(the white beaded foam) \u2013 it can crush and squeak.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Consider a Thin Decoupling Layer:<\/em>&nbsp;One clever trick to avoid squeaks is to lay a thin layer of foam or fabric over the metal floor before the rigid foam boards. For example, a&nbsp;<strong>1\/8\u2033 closed-cell foam (Minicell or even a yoga mat)<\/strong>&nbsp;or strips of it on top of each metal rib. This thin foam will compress slightly and act as a cushion so that the plywood\/foam above isn\u2019t rubbing hard on metal. It also adds a tiny bit of insulation over the ridge peaks (since those are essentially uninsulated contact points). Some van builders roll out a layer of&nbsp;<strong>3M Thinsulate<\/strong>&nbsp;acoustic insulation (which is about 1\/4\u2033 thick and compressible) across the floor for the same purpose (<a href=\"https:\/\/expeditionportal.com\/forum\/threads\/van-floor-tips-climate-considerations.204512\/#:~:text=We%20are%20using%20Thinsulate%28TM%29%20AU4002,minimize%20vibration%20transmission%20which%20improves\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Van floor tips, climate considerations? | Expedition Portal<\/a>).&nbsp;<em>\u201cRoll it out then put your floor on it\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;\u2013 it\u2019s super easy, reports one engineer, noting that&nbsp;<em>\u201cThinsulate is adequate and offers better noise reduction\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;while Minicell is a bit more supportive (<a href=\"https:\/\/expeditionportal.com\/forum\/threads\/van-floor-tips-climate-considerations.204512\/#:~:text=We%20are%20using%20Thinsulate%28TM%29%20AU4002,minimize%20vibration%20transmission%20which%20improves\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Van floor tips, climate considerations? | Expedition Portal<\/a>). The Thinsulate will crush down where the ridges are, but still provide a buffer. This step is optional \u2013 your floor will work without it \u2013 but if road noise and squeaks bother you, it\u2019s a good addition with negligible height impact.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Adhere the Foam to the Metal:<\/em>&nbsp;Another way to eliminate movement and noise is to&nbsp;<strong>glue the foam boards down to the metal floor<\/strong>&nbsp;(at least along the ridges). Using an adhesive (like 3M spray or even construction adhesive in a zigzag) between the XPS and the metal will stop the foam from shifting or bouncing in the gaps. FarOutRide emphasizes this in hindsight:&nbsp;<em>\u201cDon\u2019t cheap out on glue at the metal\/XPS interface (top of grooves); use lots of it to achieve uniform coverage\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,near%20the%20cabin\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). By effectively bonding the foam to the floor, you create a laminated structure that is less prone to squeaks. In FarOutRide\u2019s second van, they did&nbsp;<strong>not<\/strong>&nbsp;fill the ribs and reported a couple of squeaks, but they chased them down by adding more adhesive, and then it was solid (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=Squeaking%20The%20only%20downside%20of,few%20things%20to%20watch%20for\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). They still&nbsp;<em>\u201cwouldn\u2019t fill the valleys\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;completely in the future, preferring strategic support only where needed (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,near%20the%20cabin\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Screw the Subfloor Securely (but floating is okay):<\/em>&nbsp;Once the foam is down, lay your plywood on top. Many builders actually&nbsp;<strong>\u201cfloat\u201d the floor<\/strong>&nbsp;\u2013 meaning they do not bolt or screw the plywood into the metal; it\u2019s held down by its own weight and the furniture on top. This floating approach further decouples vibrations (less noise transfer) (<a href=\"https:\/\/expeditionportal.com\/forum\/threads\/van-floor-tips-climate-considerations.204512\/#:~:text=insulation%20from%20compressing%20when%20the,transmission%20which%20improves%20noise%20reduction\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Van floor tips, climate considerations? | Expedition Portal<\/a>). If you go this route, just make sure the plywood pieces are tightly fit edge-to-edge and walls so they can\u2019t slide. You can tape the seams or use a few dabs of adhesive between foam and plywood to keep it in place during the build. If you choose to&nbsp;<strong>mechanically fasten the plywood<\/strong>&nbsp;to the van (some prefer a couple screws to prevent any shift or to reuse factory D-ring bolt holes), be careful: compressing the foam with a screw can crumple it. A pro tip is to insert small&nbsp;<strong>spacers or sleeves<\/strong>&nbsp;at the bolt locations \u2013 e.g. a short piece of wooden dowel or hard plastic tube the height of the foam \u2013 so when you tighten the screw, it pinches against that and not the foam. Builders&nbsp;<em>\u201crecommend PVC lumber furring strips or blocks where cabinets and other items are through-bolted\u2026 to keep the insulation from compressing when the bolts are tightened\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/expeditionportal.com\/forum\/threads\/van-floor-tips-climate-considerations.204512\/#:~:text=We%20are%20using%20Thinsulate%28TM%29%20AU4002,minimize%20vibration%20transmission%20which%20improves\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Van floor tips, climate considerations? | Expedition Portal<\/a>). This way, you still don\u2019t have wood everywhere, just at bolt points. If you\u2019re not bolting anything through the floor, you can avoid this entirely.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Add Sound Deadening to Metal (if needed):<\/em>&nbsp;Since an unfilled floor leaves some metal exposed to air (inside that channel), you can pre-treat the metal to kill noise. Applying some&nbsp;<strong>CLD sound deadening mats<\/strong>&nbsp;(like Dynamat, Noico, etc.) on the floor will greatly reduce vibration resonance. You don\u2019t need 100% coverage; even 25% coverage with patches is enough to dampen the \u201cdrum\u201d effect. For instance, one van owner covered the entire floor with sound deadening mats and rubber pads before his plywood (overkill for most) (<a href=\"https:\/\/expeditionportal.com\/forum\/threads\/van-floor-tips-climate-considerations.204512\/#:~:text=,floor%20from%20the%20van%20steel\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Van floor tips, climate considerations? | Expedition Portal<\/a>). Even sticking a strip inside a few of the longer channels or on broad metal panels between ridges will quiet things down. This is something you can do regardless of fill vs. no-fill \u2013 it\u2019s just easier to access the bare floor before the foam goes in. It will address road noise better than foam does (foam is more for thermal insulation, whereas butyl sound mats add mass to stop vibration).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><em>Edge and Span Supports:<\/em>&nbsp;As mentioned, identify any sections where your plywood might not have support for a long distance. Common areas are the&nbsp;<strong>perimeter edges<\/strong>&nbsp;of the floor, the ends of the van, or around any large openings (like a floor vent or seat bases if you removed them). You can cut a few strips of foam (or use scrap wood\/plastic) to fill just those spots. FarOutRide\u2019s refined approach was exactly this: they&nbsp;<em>\u201cwouldn\u2019t fill the valleys on the floor, but [would] strategically add XPS or Minicell mini-strips where there is no support over large surfaces, especially near the edges\u2026 [like] near the sliding door, around the shower pan cutout, and near the front edge\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,near%20the%20cabin\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). Think of it as spot-filling only where needed for structure. This keeps most of the floor simple and open, but shores up any weak points. It\u2019s a great compromise to meet all three of your priorities.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Comparison of Approaches (Summary)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Both methods \u2013 fully filling the ribs or leaving them empty \u2013&nbsp;<strong>can and do work<\/strong>. In fact, FarOutRide has used each approach on different builds (filled on their first van, unfilled on their second) and observed success in both (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=Image%20%20186We%20didn%E2%80%99t%20fill,2\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). Here\u2019s a quick recap of the trade-offs, as highlighted by experienced van builders:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Thermal Insulation:<\/strong>&nbsp;Filling can add a&nbsp;<em>little<\/em>&nbsp;extra R-value, but a continuous foam layer on top is far more critical. In practice,&nbsp;<strong>1\u2033 of XPS plus 1\/2\u2033 plywood is sufficient for winter vanlife<\/strong>&nbsp;even without filling, according to FarOutRide (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=We%E2%80%99re%20only%20humans%2C%20and%20we,we%E2%80%99re%20not%20worried%20about%20that\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). They deliberately chose not to fill in their 4-season build and stayed warm, even in freezing conditions, with insulated walls\/ceiling and a heater (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=vanprof\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). If absolute maximum R-value is needed, fill the gaps with foam \u2013 but most find it not strictly necessary for comfort.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Sound and Vibration:<\/strong>&nbsp;A filled floor has more contact and mass on the metal, which can dampen noise slightly. An unfilled floor can be just as quiet if you add other sound treatments (mats, foam underlayment). Squeaking is more about installation quality than fill vs. not. Use foam that doesn\u2019t squeak (minicell) or add adhesive to prevent rubbing. Many van owners report&nbsp;<strong>no noticeable noise difference<\/strong>&nbsp;between the two methods (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/bedrug-cargo-liner\/?srsltid=AfmBOopj5DUHlWDguhMEyyJ5-Xzt265Vn2BXCGLrCW20PYy9rnwC_NPY#:~:text=A%20little%20less%20insulation%2C%20but,lowest%20point%20of%20the%20floor\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Bedrug VanTred Cargo Liner: Drop-In Floor Insulation for Vans?<\/a>), especially once furniture and flooring are added (which tend to suppress sound anyway).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Moisture Handling:<\/strong>&nbsp;This is arguably the biggest functional difference. If you\u2019re in wet climates or worried about spills (imagine a leaky cooler or plumbing leak in the van), an open-channel floor gives you a hidden \u201cdrip tray\u201d that might save you from unseen puddles. A filled floor demands more vigilance sealing up every possible water entry and maybe periodically checking under the floor if you suspect water. Neither approach is immune to condensation under the floor \u2013 you should always have a vapor barrier or rust protection on the metal \u2013 but leaving an air gap at the lowest point means any moisture has somewhere to go. This consideration often tips people in favor of&nbsp;<strong>not filling in humid or variable climates<\/strong>&nbsp;(<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,Return%20on%20investment%20not%20worthwhile\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>) (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/bedrug-cargo-liner\/?srsltid=AfmBOopj5DUHlWDguhMEyyJ5-Xzt265Vn2BXCGLrCW20PYy9rnwC_NPY#:~:text=Provides%20additional%20insulation%20and%20support%2C,between%20the%20metal%20and%20insulation\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Bedrug VanTred Cargo Liner: Drop-In Floor Insulation for Vans?<\/a>).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Build Complexity:<\/strong>&nbsp;If this is your first van build or you\u2019re on a tight timeline, not filling the ribs simplifies the project. It\u2019s one less task. On the other hand, if you enjoy detailed work and want the satisfaction of \u201cdoing everything you can,\u201d filling with foam isn\u2019t that hard, just tedious. Some find it an easy step for peace of mind:&nbsp;<em>\u201cYou probably don\u2019t&nbsp;<\/em><strong><em>need<\/em><\/strong><em>&nbsp;to, but it\u2019s very easy, not expensive, and a proven process,\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;said one Redditor, who didn\u2019t want to risk any squeaks (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=I%20followed%20the%20same%20instruction,risk%20deviating%20from%20the%20process\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>). So, consider your tolerance for extra work versus the perceived benefit.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>To quote a balanced perspective from FarOutRide\u2019s review of this topic:&nbsp;<em>\u201cBoth methods are commonly found in van conversions, but we still haven\u2019t seen any real-world, long term evidence proving for sure that one method is definitely wrong.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/bedrug-cargo-liner\/?srsltid=AfmBOopj5DUHlWDguhMEyyJ5-Xzt265Vn2BXCGLrCW20PYy9rnwC_NPY#:~:text=A%20little%20less%20insulation%2C%20but,lowest%20point%20of%20the%20floor\">Bedrug VanTred Cargo Liner: Drop-In Floor Insulation for Vans?<\/a>) In other words,&nbsp;<strong>neither choice will make or break your build<\/strong>&nbsp;as long as it\u2019s done thoughtfully. Many vans have hit the road with unfilled floors and many with filled floors \u2013 both can last for years without issue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Recommendations for Your Build<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Given your priorities (thermal first, then sound, then minimizing height), here is a recommended path forward:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Use a Continuous Insulation Layer:<\/strong>&nbsp;Ensure you cover the entire floor with XPS foam board (at least 1\/2\u2033, up to 1\u2033 if you can afford the height). This addresses the bulk of your insulation needs. It also provides a decoupling layer for sound. The metal ridges will contact the foam, but that\u2019s okay. Cut the foam panels to fit edge to edge. If possible,&nbsp;<strong>stagger the seams<\/strong>&nbsp;of the foam and the plywood (don\u2019t have all seams lining up) to avoid a weak line (<a href=\"https:\/\/jeremiahlukebarnett.medium.com\/how-to-build-an-insulated-subfloor-in-your-van-conversion-10278d3caaf#:~:text=NOTE%20on%20previous%20step%3A\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">How to Build an Insulated Subfloor in Your Van Conversion | by Jeremiah Luke Barnett | Medium<\/a>).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Spot-Fill Key Areas Only:<\/strong>&nbsp;Rather than filling every groove, cut a few strips of foam or use scrap wood\/PVC only in strategic spots: along the outer edges of the floor (where the plywood might otherwise flop into a channel), and any area you anticipate a point load that falls between ridges (for example, the landing point of a heavy partition or the base of a cabinet that isn\u2019t over a ridge). This ensures you maintain support where it\u2019s truly needed (<a href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,near%20the%20cabin\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). You\u2019ll still leave most valleys open for airflow.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Add a Thin Noise Buffer on Ridges:<\/strong>&nbsp;For extra credit, lay strips of thin minicell foam or even duct-tape some pieces of rubber on top of the metal ridges before dropping the foam boards in. This will prevent the&nbsp;<em>foam-on-metal<\/em>&nbsp;squeak potential and add a hair more insulation over the rib peaks. It\u2019s a low-effort step that many recommend if skipping full fills. (Alternatively, a full sheet of 1\/8\u2033 foam under the XPS as discussed will achieve the same effect.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Secure the Layers:<\/strong>&nbsp;Glue the XPS to the metal floor, and also glue or at least tightly screw the plywood to the XPS (screwing down into the foam, using large washers or plates to spread load, works well). By essentially laminating the floor layers together, you create one stiff assembly that won\u2019t shift or creak. If you prefer not to glue for removability, you can skip gluing the foam to metal \u2013 but definitely glue the plywood to the foam or use a few screws through to the metal at the edges. The aim is to eliminate any slipping. A well-bonded foam-plywood floor will feel as solid as one attached directly to metal.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Sound Deadening:<\/strong>&nbsp;Before installing the foam, stick some sound deadener patches in the middle of a few floor panels (the large flat areas between ridges) to kill resonance. Additionally, consider your finished flooring \u2013 a layer of vinyl plank, rubber coin flooring, or carpet will all help absorb noise and add a bit of thermal break on top. If you do all this, the difference between filled vs unfilled valleys in terms of road noise will be negligible.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Monitor and Ventilate:<\/strong>&nbsp;Whichever way you build, occasionally check under the mats or edges for any signs of moisture in the first few months (especially if you travel from cold to warm climates which can cause condensation). If you ever spill a large amount of water inside, make sure to lift a corner of the flooring and let the channels dry out. You can even drill a couple small holes through the floor (in inconspicuous spots) and seal them with rubber grommets \u2013 these can act as drains or inspection ports. Many vans come with factory holes that you can utilize for this purpose. Keeping an eye on this will ensure longevity of your floor and van metal.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Bottom Line:<\/strong>&nbsp;For maximizing insulation and minimizing height \u2013 focus on a thick continuous insulation layer (and avoid wood thermal bridges). For sound \u2013 use damping materials and secure, squeak-free assembly. Fully filling every valley with foam is&nbsp;<strong>optional<\/strong>; it will give a minor boost in R-value and potentially peace and quiet, but many experienced builders feel it\u2019s not strictly required (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,Return%20on%20investment%20not%20worthwhile\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/vandwellers\/comments\/jn9ead\/trying_to_understand_why_people_use_firing_strips\/#:~:text=I%20could%20not%20agree%20more%2C,choose%20not%20to%20do%20this\">Trying to understand why people use firing strips when doing subfloor in van. Is it not just as good to use adhesive and secure rigid foam then plywood then flooring? Would love feedback, especially from those with experience. : r\/vandwellers<\/a>). In fact, several experts explicitly chose not to fill in order to save work and allow moisture egress, and they have&nbsp;<em>\u201cplenty warm\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;vans with quiet floors (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=vanprof\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=We%E2%80%99re%20only%20humans%2C%20and%20we,we%E2%80%99re%20not%20worried%20about%20that\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Given your priorities, a&nbsp;<strong>hybrid approach<\/strong>&nbsp;is likely best:&nbsp;<strong>do not fill all valleys<\/strong>, but do add foam where it counts (edges or large spans) and implement sound\/insulation measures as described. This approach was echoed by FarOutRide\u2019s later recommendation and others in the community as a smart compromise (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,near%20the%20cabin\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>). You\u2019ll achieve nearly the same thermal performance and silence as a fully filled floor, without the extra labor or risk of trapped moisture. And you won\u2019t increase your floor height unnecessarily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lastly, it\u2019s worth noting that the van conversion community has had success with both methods. As one forum member aptly put it, after seeing many builds:&nbsp;<em>\u201cBoth methods are common&#8230; we haven\u2019t seen proof that one is definitely wrong\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/bedrug-cargo-liner\/?srsltid=AfmBOopj5DUHlWDguhMEyyJ5-Xzt265Vn2BXCGLrCW20PYy9rnwC_NPY#:~:text=A%20little%20less%20insulation%2C%20but,lowest%20point%20of%20the%20floor\">Bedrug VanTred Cargo Liner: Drop-In Floor Insulation for Vans?<\/a>). Focus on the overall quality of your insulation install and make sure your subfloor is well secured. If you do that, you can feel confident whether or not you filled the little grooves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Sources &amp; Community Insights:<\/strong>&nbsp;This recommendation is based on a compilation of van builder experiences and expert advice, including FarOutRide\u2019s floor insulation guide (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=We%E2%80%99re%20only%20humans%2C%20and%20we,we%E2%80%99re%20not%20worried%20about%20that\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>), discussions from van forums and Reddit (r\/VanLife and r\/vandwellers) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=%E2%80%A2\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/vandwellers\/comments\/jn9ead\/trying_to_understand_why_people_use_firing_strips\/#:~:text=People%20are%20afraid%20the%20foam,pounds%20of%20furniture%20and%20you\">Trying to understand why people use firing strips when doing subfloor in van. Is it not just as good to use adhesive and secure rigid foam then plywood then flooring? Would love feedback, especially from those with experience. : r\/vandwellers<\/a>), and professional upfitter tips (DIYVan\/Hein and others) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/expeditionportal.com\/forum\/threads\/van-floor-tips-climate-considerations.204512\/#:~:text=We%20are%20using%20Thinsulate%28TM%29%20AU4002,minimize%20vibration%20transmission%20which%20improves\">Van floor tips, climate considerations? | Expedition Portal<\/a>). These sources reflect a broad consensus that&nbsp;<strong>structurally, XPS foam and plywood are sufficient on their own<\/strong>, and that strategic support plus good installation practices will meet your goals. In summary:&nbsp;<em>you do not strictly \u201cneed\u201d to fill the Transit\u2019s floor ribs<\/em>, but doing so with foam strips is a valid method if you choose. With the hybrid approach recommended, you\u2019ll maximize insulation and sound control while keeping the floor profile low \u2013 hitting all three of your priorities. Enjoy your van build!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>(<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/faroutride.com\/floor\/?srsltid=AfmBOopVnLc73Dy2jLiB0dUqjoGRBtwGHi4QBtpz1vBhOT-hTjvNxOJi#:~:text=,Concerns%20about%20insulation%20compressing%20underweight\">DIY Van Floor &#8211; Insulation, Subfloor &amp; Covering Install Guide &#8211; FarOutRide<\/a>) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=%E2%80%A2\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/VanLife\/comments\/thumyf\/do_i_need_to_fill_the_ribs_in_my_floor_before\/#:~:text=I%20was%20planning%20on%20using,clogged%20during%20a%20heavy%20rain\">Do I need to fill the ribs in my floor before laying XPS? : r\/VanLife<\/a>) (<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.reddit.com\/r\/vandwellers\/comments\/jn9ead\/trying_to_understand_why_people_use_firing_strips\/#:~:text=People%20are%20afraid%20the%20foam,pounds%20of%20furniture%20and%20you\">Trying to understand why people use firing strips when doing subfloor in van. Is it not just as good to use adhesive and secure rigid foam then plywood then flooring? Would love feedback, especially from those with experience. : r\/vandwellers<\/a>)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Introduction Building a campervan subfloor in a van involves dealing with the factory metal floor, which has raised ridges (corrugations) with valleys in between. A common question among van builders is whether to\u00a0fill those low valleys before adding insulation and subfloor. The decision can impact thermal performance, noise, and floor height. In fact, there are [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-van-build"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16,"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1\/revisions\/16"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vanwander.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}